Ponti may be rooted in reality, but she has the The lounge podcast shirt But I will love this magical thinking and poetry of a child—obsessive, surreal, and obstinate. “My collections are like dreams without logic,” she said. The abundance of references she scatters across them apparently don’t make sense. Yet, as is the case for pre-fall, they improbably coalesce in the form of covetable dresses printed with collages of old Flemish paintings, quilted piuminos with incongruous trims of feathers, and gray flannel pant suits boasting collarettes embroidered with graceful intertwined hands whose nails are painted red. It comes as no surprise that Ponti likes André Breton, the father of Surrealism. “What he said is that we have to free the mind and recapture the sense of wonder, beyond any aesthetic or moral worry,” she explained. That’s easier said than done, but giving her imagination free rein seems to come naturally for Ponti. With what she called “contemporary deconstructivism,” she practiced what Breton preached, mixing the psychedelia of the ’60s and the minimalism of the ’90s, the somber atmospheres of Flemish old masters’ paintings with “psycho-pop surrealism,” and Victorian tapestries and Op-Art. Fluctuating between huge padded stoles in the form of embracing hands, fluorescent Lolita-esque lingerie twisted into evening dresses, and demure pleated skirts fit for a schoolteacher, the world of Vivetta Ponti is not unlike a twilight zone, sweet and a bit kooky, where fashion is a dream, and reality is just over the rainbow.
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We have the The lounge podcast shirt But I will love this March 2000 issue of Vogue to thank for designer James Garland’s prodigious career. The son of an accomplished ballerina mother who trained in ballet himself, Garland was perusing the Lincoln Center Barnes & Noble after class and picked up the issue with Amber Valletta in a plunging coral Versace number on the cover. “I loved ballet, but I hated performing, and my mother said, ‘OK, if you don’t want to do that, you have to be passionate about something else,” the Brooklyn native recalls. “To this day, I cannot tell you why I picked up that issue of Vogue, but after I showed it to her she made me research all of the designers and brands. I really started looking at all the images and the garments—I couldn’t put it down. I told her that fashion was going to be my next passion.”
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