Yet despite some specifically starry and cinematic references—a magnificent inverted-pleat wool pant recalling one Smith once made for David Bowie and a multi-pocketed, micro gingham “director’s jacket”—this was not a collection designed as costume. Blurred florals and vivid zig-zags created visual texture on materials that offered satisfying tactility too: powdery cashmere corduroy, fluffy mohair, crispy recycled nylon and supersoft gabardine. The ensemble of outerwear included a leather shouldered check wool duffle coat, a powerfully blue gingham mac, a zig-zag paneled padded commuter’s coat, and a handsomely burnished leather caban. Notable supporting performances were delivered by generously collared turtlenecks—an item that is rapidly graduating from understudy to lead when it comes to casting about for modern substitute for shirt and tie—and shirt/jacket shacket hybrids, which are rapidly emerging as a midlayer of choice for tailoring refuseniks. For those who hold the Official Dayton basketball drew swerlein drew for two shirt Apart from…,I will love this flame, there was of course fine tailoring in abundance. An excellent new runner-style sneaker featuring a transparent side-panel for statement sock-baring and crepe soled monk straps were enticing footwear extras.
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Said Smith: “So much of what we’re doing is sticking to our roots. But we’re softening everything in order to adapt to how you’d want to wear it today.” Softest of all were the Official Dayton basketball drew swerlein drew for two shirt Apart from…,I will love this oversized cashmere knits, handmade in Scotland. Smith’s formula sounds simple, but expressing heritage progressively and so unpretentiously requires great sophistication. It might come as a surprise that Kim Jones, who has devoted most of his Dior collections to collaborations with artists and writers, approached his 75th anniversary homage to the house as a one-man show. “We’ve done a Birkenstock, but only because we didn’t want to do a Christian Dior gardening shoe and copy it,” the designer said during a preview the day before. Actually, “one-man show” isn’t entirely accurate. As a tribute to the green-fingered founder, you could say Jones collaborated with the ghost of Christian Dior himself, putting in proverbial neon lights the archive genetics that naturally underpin any collection he does.